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How to Tune your Lectron Carb
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Initial Metering Rod Setting:
The best way to achieve initial setting is to use a fuel ratio tool; this tool
will actually measure the taper of the metering rod at the idle position.
If you do not have the fuel ratio tool you can achieve an initial setting
using a set of veneer calipers to measure from the tip of the rod to the
brass insert in the slide.
Physical Idle Adjustment:
By turning adjusting screw on left side of carburetor.
Important: Be sure of proper throttle cable adjustment free play.
Idle Tuning:
Turn metering rod in or out. Turn out for leaner idle. Metering rod should
be adjusted only a 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time, then check engine.
Fine Tuning Adjustment:
Idle and bottom end can be adjusted by a 1/4 turn adjustment. Push the
metering rod in, rotate plastic slide insert, and then screw the metering rod
bringing the flat surface of the metering rod so it faces the piston. This
adjustment only aids in tuning throttle response at low RPM of the idle
and mid-range.
Mid-Range Tuning:
If the low end is correct but the mid-range is too lean or too rich, change
metering rod to a different 1st index number. The first
index
number of the
two numbers determines rich or leaner
mid-range and top-end
tuning. An
8-1 needle is leaner and
a 9-1 needle is richer.
A 9-1 needle with power jet at 1/2 turn, and an 8-1 needle with
power jet
at 1 turn will produce the same top-end but different
mid-range.
Tuning example starting with a 8-1 metering rod:
1) If engine idles higher than usual or reluctantly returns to
idle,
than turn metering rod a (clockwise) 1/2
turn. If too rich than
turn metering rod out (counter-clockwise)
1/2 turn.
2) If the mid-range is too lean, go to a 9-1 metering rod,
and close the power jet 1/2 turn.
3) If the idle and mid-range are fine with a 8-1,
but runs lean at top end, open power jet
1/2 turn,
if power jet is at 1 1/2 turns you need to
change to a 9-1 needle.
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Note:
Flat Side of Metering Rod Must Always Face in
Towards Engine
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Lectron Carburetor Parts List |
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| 5566-1 |
Slide |
| 5085-1 |
Acorn Nut Choke |
| 5056-1 |
Choke Boot |
| 5054-1 |
Bushing Choke |
| 5333-1 |
Spring Choke |
| 5045-1 |
Choke Piston with Tip |
| 5380-1 |
Cable Choke Assembly |
| 5399-1 |
Carburetor Body Only |
| 5086-2 |
Idle Stop Spring |
| 5352-1 |
Vent Tube Flex |
| 5057-1 |
Idle Stop Screw |
| 5062-1 |
Vent Clip - Tube |
| 5033-1 |
Float Lever Pin |
| 5028-2 |
Float Assembly - Pressure R.H. |
| 5028-3 |
Float Assembly - Pressure L.H. |
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Float Lever |
| 5023-1 |
Gravity |
| 5023-2 |
Pressure |
| 5025-2 |
Float Bowl Screw |
| 5389-1 |
Standard Float Bowl |
| 5389-2 |
Power Jet Bowl |
| 5565-1 |
Dual Float Assembly |
| 5026-1 |
Float Bowl Gasket |
| 5034-1 |
Needle & Seat - Gravity |
| 5034-2 |
Needle & Seat - Pressure |
| 5037-1 |
Needle & Seat Gasket |
| 5077-1 |
Top Cover Gasket |
| 5018-1 |
Top Cover Assembly |
| 5019-1 |
Top Cover Screws |
| 5089-1 |
Cable Adjuster (Std. Thread) |
| 5336-1 |
Cable Adjuster (Metric) |
| 5061-1 |
Cable Weather Seal |
| 5517-1 |
Power Jet Nozzle (Long) |
| 5517-2 |
Power Jet Nozzle (Short) |
| 5467-1 |
Power Jet |
| 5466-1 |
Power Jet Cap Screw |
| 5400-1 |
Metering Rod (Short) |
| 5400-2 |
Metering Rod (Long) |
| 5400-3 |
Metering Rod (X-Long) |
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Slide Spring |
| 5056-1 |
L (Light) |
| 5056-2 |
M (Medium) |
| 5056-3 |
H (Heavy) |
| 5366-1 |
Fuel Screen |
| 5366-2 |
Fuel Screen Encapsulator |
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VForce2 and VForce3
Frequently Asked Questions… |
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=) Which setting works best for reed tension on the
VForce2 reed valves?
All of our field and dyno
testing has consistently proven that the hi tension
setting works best for just about any style of
riding. You will notice a strong midrange with gains
all the way to the top. The low tension setting may
be helpful to racers who need all the bottom end
they can get, such as enduro racers. Another
advantage of the hi tension setting is that we have
noticed reed petal life is increased as a result of
the chances of the petals contacting the cases being
virtually eliminated. You can still do your own
comparison and see what works best for your
conditions.
=) I can see “pin holes” through the reed petals
when I hold them up to light, is this a problem?
Absolutely not. While it may
appear that there are holes in the reed material,
there in fact are not. What you are seeing is just
light through the resin in-between the weave of the
carbon fiber and this is not a hole within the petal
itself. While it may appear deceiving it should be
of no concern as it has zero effect on reed petal
life or performance.
=) When I hold the reed valve assembly up to a
light source I notice there is a slight gap at the
reed tip area. Is this small gap going to affect
performance and is this a problem?
This is absolutely not a problem and
will not affect performance in any way. When you
consider the reed petals are opening and closing 133
times per second at 8¸000 RPM, the petal will never
actually fully seal 100%, so a small gap is not a
concern.
=) What can I expect after installing the VForce?
Typical gains are 5+% more
horsepower throughout the RPM range, depending on
motor configuration. Added benefits also include
explosive acceleration, crisper throttle response
and wider peak horsepower.
=) Will I need to rejet?
Typically, there is no need to rejet
after installing the VForce Reed Valve System. If
you have previously jetted your machine to work well
with your stock reed valve you should have no
problems. However, we do recommend that you check
the plugs after your first ride to make sure that
there is not a drastic change. Unfortunately we
cannot offer advice on jetting guidelines since
there are so many variables that will affect your
jetting... such as climate, elevation, other
existing mods and more.
=) Is it easy to change the reeds? Can I do this
myself?
Yes. The reed valve can easily be
disassembled and most users change their own reeds.
=) How is the VForce different from my stock
valve?
Our valve offers twice the reed tip
surface of a stock valve. This provides additional
flow, which in turn improves throttle response. Also
because of our design less energy is lost within the
intake track, making our valve much more efficient.
The VForce reed valve system also comes with tension
adjusting reed stops, finally allowing you the
freedom to "dial in" your desired power delivery.
=) What is considered "normal" reed life?
First of all, even though there are
many variables that contribute to reed life… our
newly designed, proprietary lay-up for our reeds,
has proven to be extremely durable. We have done
extensive testing with our new carbon fiber reed
material and have been amazed by it’s performance
and durability. With that in mind here are some
guidelines for reed life. For motorcycle and ATV’s
don’t check them unless you feel a decrease in
power. Otherwise if you are riding several times a
week we would recommend changing them once a year.
If, however, you suck dirt through your engine you
would obviously want to inspect the reed valve
carefully to insure there is no dirt in the valve,
as this would lead to premature wear on the entire
assembly. For snowmobiles, we recommend checking
them once a year as well. If you can see any visible
signs of wear replace the reed petals. For
watercraft, which are usually a bit harder on reeds,
we recommend checking them twice throughout the
season and changing once a year if you feel a
decrease in performance. There really is no "stock"
answer on how long reed petals should last. It is
important to remember reed petals are a wear item,
the same as a piston ring is considered a wear item.
Also, every engine acts differently so there is
always some variation in reed life.
=) Do you offer a VForce reed valve system for
the Kawasaki KX 65/80/85/100?
Yes. The part number is V364A
for the KX 60/65 and V384A for the KX 80/85/100 and
they are available now.
=) Do you offer a VForce reed valve system for
the KTM 65?
Yes we do. The part number is V351B
and they are available now.
=) My 2003 KTM250 came with a Boyesen RAD valve,
can I switch to a VForce reed valve system?
Unfortunately there is no easy way
to make a VForce reed valve fit the 2003 KTM250. The
bike comes stock with a Boyesen RAD valve which
includes the intake manifold. A stock intake
manifold is required to install a VForce reed valve.
Factory KTM races with VForce technology however,
they use an intake manifold that is only available
to their race team and not the general public to
adapt their motor to the VForce reed valve system.
=) Will I need to make any special modifications
to my machine when installing a VForce reed valve
system?
The only possible
modification that one may need to make is on the
stock intake manifold. If you stock manifold has
rubber tabs protruding from it than these will have
to be trimmed off to install the VForce reed valve
system. This is a simple modification that should
add less then 5 minutes to the installation time.
=) What is included in the package when I order a
VForce reed valve system?
Inside the box you will find
everything you need to replace your stock reed valve
system. The VForce will include the reed cage and
reed petals, as well as the gaskets needed for
installation. The box will also include a brochure
and two stickers.
=) Is it possible to buy replacement petals only,
or do I need replace the entire reed valve system
when the petals wear out?
All of our reed valve systems
are completely serviceable. The reeds can easily be
replaced by the end user or your local service
center. Replacement reed petals are available for
$59.95. They are sold on a "per cylinder" basis,
which means that each set is enough to rebuild one
reed valve only. If you have a triple reed valve
set, you need to purchase three sets of replacement
reed petals.
=) I've noticed that in pictures showing reed
petal replacement on the VForce 3 reed valve system
there is a special tool that is used to remove and
install the reeds, do i need to purchase this
separately?
The tool required to remove and
replace reed petals on the VForce 3 reed valve
system is included free with the purchase of all
sets of replacement petals for the VForce 3 reed
valve system.
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